Monday 22nd August

Our last day in Italy. We didn't have to check out until 12 so made the most of our morning by going up to the top of the Cathedral dome. We got there when it opened at 8.30. One advantage of this is that there is no-one trying to get down while you are going up. Most of the time there is one way up and a different way down but sometimes it is two-way and you have to wait for a gap.

It is a big climb with strong warnings at the bottom not to attempt it if you have heart problems. On the way to the roof you go inside the dome and get a good view of the day of judgement fresco.

Then up some more steps until you are right at the top with a view of the whole of Florence and beyond.

Just to prove we all made it to the top

After picking up our luggage we went to the food market where they had a cafe. Si and Will sampled the local delicacy - tripe. The journey back was easy changed at Milan and then to Lausanne where we got our final train, a local one to Nyon where Nick met us.

Sunday 21st August

Si and I left the flat at 6.30 and it was perfect – quiet and cool. We went to the Duomo (cathedral) first. A massive creation in ornate marble. 

Approaching the Duomo

Then to the square outside the Uffizi to see the copy of the statue of David. Crossed  the Ponte Vecchio again and went to the Palazzo Pitti a huge brutish building with an interesting modern statue outside. We then went to Santo Spirito and as it was now 8.30 the church was open. According to the Rough Guide Bernini described it as the “most beautiful church in the world”. It was very elegant.  Then made our way home for breakfast picking up some custard and chocolate filled pastries for breakfast on the way.

It is hard to capture the size of the Cathedral but this is an attempt

  

Spent the rest of the morning inside in the relative cool before venturing out for some sandwiches at lunch time. Then I went to the Santa Maria Novella church. This was awe inspiring, not in a spiritual sense but just thinking about the jaw dropping levels of wealth it represents. Rich families commissioned chapels within the church some with immense frescos - often including themselves pictured as part of biblical stories. The others went for a drink and then went to see the Duomo again. William and Josie were impressed but didn't say they wished they'd got up at 6.

The outside of Santa Maria Novella

We then retreated back to the cool of the apartment. Josie and I tried to go to Mcdonalds later to use their WiFi but after we'd bought drinks found out you had to have an Italian phone to access it. We had dinner at the apartment and then went out for gelato (after our meal this time!). It was a Sicilian one recommended in the Rough Guide but wasn't as good as some of the others we've had. 

Saturday 20th August

I did walk to the bakery again, it was a bit earlier so was still relatively cool. Had our final breakfast looking out over the mountain view. 

Clive drove us to the station and we sorted out the car hire money on the way. The journey to Rome was fine but the train from Rome to Florence on a smart Eurostar train that we paid a supplement for was painful. Very busy and it was about 20 minutes late setting off then stopped for another 20 minutes outside a tunnel and the air conditioning never really cooled it down much. 

Arrived about 4.30 and a short walk to our apartment, found it ok although it didn’t quite match the directions and there was no answer when we rang the bell. We phoned the number we’d been given and the caretaker came round on her bike to let us in. Nice apartment with lovely wooden ceilings plus a big TV and two air conditioning units that make a lot of noise but cool things down a bit.

The ceiling in the apartment

We went to the local supermarket to buy some stuff for tea and then went for a wander and some gelato. Crossed the Ponte Vecchio and took the obligatory photos. On the way back to the flat we passed a covered courtyard where they were just finishing a free ballet performance. 

  Evening crowd on Ponte Vecchio  

In the evening we watched some Italian TV including MTV and Two and a Half Men dubbed into Italian. Saw a weather forecast saying it will be 37 tomorrow. Si and I plan to get up at 6am and go sightseeing while it is still cool. Will and Josie declined this offer. 

Friday 19th August

Si drove to the bakers this morning – lovely bread. We spent most of the morning looking through guide books trying to decide where to go. In the end opted for a hermitage in a gorge. It was very pretty you could walk down to the river and along to a dramatic waterfall. The water was very cold, it hurt to put your feet in. Si bravely got across to some rocks to take this photo.

He then dropped the camera in the water but we left it in the glove compartment to bake and it seems to be ok. We went in search of arrosticini, a local lamb dish, but it was getting late so we had to settle for a pizza in Sulmona.

We were sat outside what looked like a florist but we eventually realised was a confetti shop. The local industry is to make sugar almond flowers mainly for weddings (and tourists!). We bought some for Sarah who is looking after the rabbit.

Si and Clive spent most of the evening sorting out the car. The wing mirror we had on order turned out to be the wrong size. They also had to get a quote for the dent. Clive persuaded someone he knows to come out on his holiday to look at it. The final amount for mirror and dent was €360 and we have to pay in cash. We also had to pay for the hire in cash so we had reached our daily limit. We’ll have to go to the cash point and car hire on the way to the station tomorrow. The owner of the car we hit never rang us so presumably won’t now.

In the square tonight it was an accordion and a balalaika (we think) they were also selling pasta and fried cheese sandwiches. We’d already eaten but bought some of the spaghetti to try. It was very plain just oil and some fresh chillies on top.

Thursday 18th August

I walked to the bakers this morning but it was hot and a long walk along the main road so I don’t think I’ll bother again! Had nice fresh cornettos though – like croissants with icing sugar and slight lemon taste.

We drove up into the Abruzzo National Park. Dramatic scenery. Went to the central town and again failed to find the tourist information office, think they are some sort of  secret society. We found an office organising guided tours that sold us a book and recommended a couple of nature trails.

The main one we went on was called ‘val fondillo’ and went along a river and then back through a beech wood. We stopped off for lunch and a siesta. We then went on to another short walk past a wolf protection area where we saw one slightly mangy looking wolf – not as impressive as the ones near Reading!

In the evening Clive told us that the entertainment in the square was a puppet show. We went and sat down in the square and the curtains on the stage opened to a set showing the outside of a bar. Three women came on and started talking to each other in an exaggerated pantomime way. Then they left and two men one with one trouser leg cut off came on, then an old man with his daughter then a priest. No sign of any puppets! There was a portable wood burning pizza oven behind us and the promise of free pizza but even that wasn’t enough to persuade us to stay.

Wednesday 17th August

We followed Clive into the industrial part of Sulmona to a car parts place. The guy had a look and said we only need to replace the glass and he can order us one for E14.

We then went into the market and bought loads of fantastic stuff, sweetcorn, water melon, aubergines, peaches, green beans, tomatoes, eggs, two types of cheese and the local salami known colloquially as ‘coglioni di mulo’ . They had a couple of stalls selling slices of roast pork in rolls, we chose one that claimed to have won the Italian pork championship – it was good. We also bought some bread from the baker on the edge of the market. You buy it by weight they just cut you off a chunk and you can even have it sliced – which they did by hand with a big knife. We also went to a better supermarket and bought some local wine and other stuff.

Si showing off his coglioni  

In the early evening we drove to Introdaqua a local village with a medieval tower. When we got there a festival was just started that claimed it would have ‘gourmet food stalls’  - there was one peanut stall! We walked up to the tower and then bought a gelato from a bar where we’d seen them get a delivery from an artisan gelato maker.

When we got back there was a religious procession going round the village. Led by a brass band and followed by the women, people carrying a statue and then then the men. We assumed the statue was Mary but when it came close it appeared to be Jesus with a small dog at his feet with a huge biscuit in its mouth.

We made a meal with our market purchases some of which weren’t as good as they looked. The peaches were a bit sharp and the sweetcorn was inedible, tough and tasteless. The tomatoes were good though – Will made bruschetta  from a left over baguette.  The brass band played on the stage but we didn’t go to see them, we could hear it anyway. Played Trivial Pursuits.

Tuesday 16th August

Breakfast on the decking

Clive took Si to pick up the car. We then drove into Sulmona to try another of the restaurants in the Gourmet guide called Gino. We had  the E30 local speciality menu and they made Josie vegetarian options where necessary. We had bruschetta with pigs cheeks (very thin raw ham) and preserved garlic shoots Josie had bruschetta with tomatoes.  We then had two separate pasta courses, the first was thick spaghetti with courgette and courgette flower sauce flavoured with saffron and then normal sized spaghetti with a lamb sauce.  Josie had the courgette sauce again so good job she liked it. We thought we had finished but then they bought out the main courses. A plate of different fried cheeses for Josie and lamb for us with potatoes and a slice of aubergine.

In the afternoon we drove into the mountains to a lake. We followed signs but failed to find the tourist office but we did have to pull over to let a funeral procession go past. They were carrying the coffin through the streets followed by loads of people. We then went back to the lake and went for a swim. On the way back we had a scrape in the car pulling over on a narrow road to let cars past. We’ve slightly dented and scratched our car and the parked car we touched is scratched.  We left a note with Si’s phone number. Coming back into town we had another knock and lost the glass out of our wing mirror. We then went to the first supermarket we saw which turned out to be really cheap and nasty. We got the bare minimum to have an omelette and some sliced bread for breakfast.

We told Clive about the damage to the car and he is going to take us to someone he knows tomorrow to have a look at the wing mirror. He also said no one in Italy has ever left a number after hitting a parked car! There was a concert in the square just outside our flat, a singer, drummer, double bass and keyboard playing mostly latin swing type music.

Monday 15th August

Travelling on to Abruzzo today. Set off after breakfast, walked to the station and got the local train to Naples. There were a couple of buskers playing fiddle and accordion  - only English people gave them any money.

Had time at Naples station to buy some sandwiches and then caught the train to Rome. At Rome we knew we had to get the underground to another station to catch the train to Sulmona. Got there to be told that there had been a problem at that station and trains to Sulmona were going from Termini – where we had just come from. Luckily we had plenty of time to catch our connection. Back at the right station we were waiting for the platform of our train to be displayed. It was finally displayed two minutes before it was due to leave but after a mad dash through the station we caught it.

The train goes a very long and slow way round and takes about 3 hours. It was hot setting off from Rome but cooled as we go into the mountains and there was even a bit of rain. Clive who owns MonteViste, the apartment where we are staying, met us at the station. The apartment looks lovely, two bedrooms, kitchen, bathroom two living spaces and decking outside with a table. 

Sunday 14th August

Cruising day today. Walked down to the port, stopping off to get some money and some spaghetti and pasta in case all the shops are shut tomorrow for the holiday. Found the boat and got ourselves set up with 4 deck chairs in the shade (at first anyway). 

Sailed at 10 and took about an hour to get to Capri where we moored near some rocks just off the coast and went swimming from the boats. We saw into‘the rich man’s harbour’ where all the big yachts are.

Coming up to Capri

 We were then in the sun all the way to Positano but didn’t mind as there was a breeze and we were cool after the swimming. Some people got off at Positano but we sailed on to Amalfi, some of us may have had a little nap on the way. 

Amalfi is a pretty village climbing up the cliff, we only had 1 ½ hours so just time for lunch in a cheapish tourist café in a nice square. On the journey back we were in the shade on the land side.

Sorrento from the sea

 

Long tramp back to the hotel from the port, tired out by our busy day! After a rest Si and I went out to a restaurant recommended in the ‘Gourmet traveller’s guide to Italy’. We had pizza’s cooked in a proper wood fired oven. They were good,  proper thick Naples ones. The wine was hideously expensive so we had half a bottle and some water. William and Josie went to the local take-away  because Will wanted to try the ‘roast sucking pig and chip’ pizza. The pig was just ham but it did have chips on the pizza. Josie had to go back twice because the spaghetti frittata she ordered first time had ham in it.

Saturday 13th August

Pompeii today. Went on the train and made the mistake of buying a guide from a man outside the station. We haggled him down to E10 which was still more than they cost in the site.

Roman 'lockers' at the baths

Pompeii is huge an entire town with several bakeries, take-away places and brothels as well as the houses, shops and temples. You can walk down the pavements and some of the streets had speed bumps. We did get to see some of the gruesome plaster casts of dead bodies - Josie's main aim of the day. It was very hot so we had a long lunch break. In the afternoon we went to see the arena and theatre - the theatre is still used.

William enjoying his pizza at the ancient Pompeii Autogrill

 We were exhausted in the evening and had dinner at the hotel again. Not as good as the first night but Josie's vegetarian option was mozzarella fried in lemon leaves.

Gruesome body

Friday 12th August

Intended to get the bus to Amalfi this morning but it went straight past us again. Got a local bus into Sorrento town and went for a drink on the terrace bar of a posh hotel looking out over the sea.

Sipping cocktails on the terrace

Then went to have a look down at the ravine in the centre of town where you can see the ruins of an old saw mill. Bought some local mozzarella and tomatoes and had our lunch in the small communal gardens.

The mill in the ravine

After lunch walked down to the beach – again a tiny public bit surrounded by expensive private places. The sea was clear and cool. Then walked along to the port and booked a boat trip on Sunday going out to Capri and then to Amalfi – at least we won’t have to worry about the buses.

Thursday 11th August

I’m sat on the pretty shaded terrace outside our room looking at palm trees and a clear blue sky accompanied by the endless sounds of traffic and the next door building site.


Walked to the local laundrette and did some washing this morning. Found a nice café attached to a lemon farm to wait (while Si went back to put stuff in dryer!) they insisted on giving us their limoncello to try. Josie and I had creamy iced coffee Will had cookie and nutella ice-cream. We then had a quick look in the lemon farm where they gave us some more limoncello to try. We bought some anchovies, cheese and tomatoes to eat back at the hotel for lunch.

The lemon farm

In the afternoon we got the bus to Positano which was harder than it sounds. We struggled to work out where to get tickets and where to get the bus. Some tourists told us in the end. Amazing journey right by the cliff edge at one point if feels like being suspended above the sea. Walked down to a not very nice beach for a swim and then along a pretty path to a nicer but by that time shady beach. Most of the beaches you have to pay (E12 each sometimes) and the public beaches are always a small scabby bit.

We walked back up the hill to catch the 6.40 bus back but it was full and didn’t stop so went for a meal instead. Had linguine Vongole (clams) and Josie had ravioli. It was delicious and fantastic view over the bay. Went back for the 9.10 bus that did stop but we couldn’t get on. They then sent an extra bus that we did get on but some people had to stand all the way. Walked back from Sorrento – it is hard work being on holiday (but they did have pizza for breakfast).

Eating spaghetti and enjoying the view

Wednesday 10th August

Easy train journey to Naples. We got off there to find something for lunch. Followed the rough guide’s recommendation that the market was a good place for street food. The market was full of tat – like St. Ambroix market but with scooters driving between the stalls. Cars rarely stop for pedestrians; they’ll swerve round you if you are on a crossing. Josie bought a Korn t-shirt at one of the stalls. We found a kiosk selling fried pizza and cold beers. E12 for the four of us. I said it was the best thing I’d eaten in Italy, Will thought it was the best thing he’d eaten ever. The local train to Sant-Agnello (one stop before Sorrento) was hot and slow but got us there.

We are 2 minute walk from the sea but then you have to get down to it. Most of the places to swim are private but there is a free bit for plebs off a concrete jetty. The hotel is also a cooking school and dinner is whatever the class have been making. We had courgette soufflé, spaghetti putessena, calamari and almond tart all delicious. It is easy to get vegetarian food, most of it is anyway. They just made Josie a salad instead of the calamari. We sat at big table with all the other guests including a woman from Caversham.  Apparently the breakfasts here can include pizza!

Tuesday 9th August

Rome. Hot. Very hot. We were booked in to a tour of the Coliseum at 9.40 and were supposed to get there 20 minutes early. We misjudged how long it would take us to get there and ended up rushing. Eventually got to the Coliseum but were the wrong side and had to cross a busy road and walk round the whole thing. Pushing past the waiting crowds (legitimately because we had booked) we managed to get there just  in time – and the guide was 5 minutes late anyway. The guide was an archaeologist, we went down to the basement and saw where the boats came in when the arena was flooded to re-enact  naval battles and where the winches were to get the animals up to the arena.

View from underground showing the winch points.

We then went briefly up to the second level with all the crowds before going up to the 3^rd level that most people aren’t allowed. The arena originally had marble seats that were ground down for concrete in the middle ages. It also used to have a retractable roof made from sails.

Looking down from the 3rd level

After the Coliseum we went for a gelato and then lunch (perhaps we should have done it the other way round.) We went to a place recommended in the apartment’s visitors book were you could have a taster menu of different pasta dishes. You could choose how many to have we thought 6 but the waiter suggested 4 ! We had gnocchi with gorgonzola, ravioli with ricotta and lemon, another pasta with mushrooms and radicchio and tagliatelle with ragu. We then found a patch of shade on a square to rest before heading up to Palatinate Hill to make use of the free entrance included with the Coliseum tickets. It was hot but some good views from the top.

Eating gelato is a messy business in the heat

Ate out again in the evening at a non-descript tourist restaurant on the street. The pizza wasn’t bad, good crispy bases. We then walked to the Trevi fountain, which was amazing, hundreds of people crowded round and all lit up. 

Crowds at the Trevi fountain

Monday 8th August

Nick, Jenny, Barnaby and Murray all took us to Nyon station. The first hurdle was working out what to do with our rail passes. We showed them at the ticket office and asked for a ticket to Geneva. After a few moments of staring at our passes as if she had never heard of them she eventually said you don’t need tickets you idiots these are global passes – at least thats  what her eyes said. Safely on the train which of course left exactly on time we waved to everyone and set off on the first small leg of our adventure. 

We ate our sandwiches in Geneva station and then caught the train to Milan. We went through the Alps and past the Italian lakes and after about 3 ½ hours arrived in Milan. We ate more sandwiches at the station and nearly missed the train to Rome. Safely on it took us another 3 ½ hours to get to Rome. Not very interesting scenery lots of tunnels.

Eating dinner in Milan station

Got to Rome at 10pm and it was hot. Had to walk 5 minutes  with our luggage to a hotel to book into our apartment 15 walk in the other direction. It all worked out and Josie and I even braved the lift to the 5^th floor which the instructions said no more than 2 people depending on how much luggage you have or you might get stuck. We’ve got a nice big clean white room with Roy Lichtenstein posters on the wall. Kitchen and bathroom shared with 2 other rooms. No air conditioning but a big fan that we left on all night.